Bourbon Steak replaces the Princess’ long-time eatery, the Marquesa, an Old World, white-tablecloth establishment that helped define elegant dining in the Valley for years.

So, with images of the Marquesa coursing through my brain, I entered Bourbon Steak and was immediately bowled over. Gone was the matronly Marquesa and in its place was Bourbon Steak, a Las Vegas-type hottie, exotic and sleek in dark woods, glass and steel. The transformation was so complete that I asked three waiters if this really was the exact site of the Marquesa.

In all honesty, the oh-so-trendy vibe left me a bit cold at first, but as the evening wore on I increasingly became forgiving. The excellence of the food went a long way toward winning me over, but it was the knowledgeable and friendly wait staff that made me a fan.

While Bourbon Steak may be new to the Valley, it’s not the first in the nation. A concept developed by acclaimed restaurateur and Chef Michael Mina, there are two other Bourbon Steaks in Miami and Detroit. As there are only three Bourbon Steaks, the concept isn’t played out just yet, so you can go to the Scottsdale location knowing you’re still in for something special, and that something special is the food.

The appetizers are arranged in categories, so you have a choice of three lobster appetizers, three tuna, three Dungeness crab, etc. A lobster and crab fan, I grabbed up the bacon and shisho-wrapped fritters with a yuzo crème fraiche and a Dungeness crab bisque with parsnip and apple. Each appetizer was a delight, blending what would seem like incompatible flavors to give new life to traditional dishes. Another fun appetizer was the Bourbon Steak Trio of Duck Fat Fries. And yes, they are exactly what you think they are — French fries cooked with duck fat. The fries are then dusted with seasonings such as paprika and garlic salt.

If you can avoid filling up on the appetizers, make sure you order what Bourbon Steak is all about — red meat. You not only get a choice on cuts, you also get to choose what type of beef you want. Bourbon Steak offers all-natural Angus beef, American Kobe beef and Japanese A5 Kobe. Prior to grilling, all red meats at Bourbon Steak are poached in various flavors of butter. The ribeye my dining companion and I shared was juicy, tender and flavorful.

Now why, you might ask, would you go to a steakhouse just to share a steak? Well, at Bourbon Steak there’s a very good reason — the Maine lobster pot pie. In a word, it was magnificent. A 2-pound Maine lobster is cut and cooked in a stew of garden vegetables and a rich brandy cream, all topped with a thick, flaky crust. The dish is served tableside, with the waiter cutting off the top crust, laying it on a serving dish and then dishing up the lobster, vegetables and cream on top of it. The presentation is beautiful, but you won’t linger on looks — the temptation to eat up is too strong to resist. If you take home a doggy bag, make sure the pot pie is wrapped up because the leftovers are even better the next day.

While Bourbon Steak is Mina’s concept, kudos for execution goes to Executive Chef Sean Griffin. So give him thanks as you eat.

www.michaelmina.net